Leshan and Mt. Emei

A couple weekends ago we went on our final USAC field trip! It was an overnight excursion to Leshan and Mt. Emei, one that I’d known was coming for a while but still managed to sneak up on me. It came at the perfect time though, because a healthy dose of sadness had also been creeping up on me and let me tell you, it did a fantastic job of letting me think I had things under control until all of a sudden I didn’t. I had put so much energy into remaining (relatively) productive, into going out and getting groceries and exercising, that by the time I woke up on Wednesday morning, completely depleted, it was too late to do anything except realize OH THIS IS REALLY BAD, HUH.
So I wallowed. It was a classic wallow, really—one for the books—and I was careful not to leave out any important steps. These include, but are not limited to:

-Be in The Bed.
Not sleeping in the bed, but still there. In the bed. It’s important that you spend enough time in the bed for it to stop being comforting while coming to know beyond a shadow of a doubt that escape is futile. 

-General Clutter, also known as the "That’s Just Trash” Approach.
Example: If you eat a piece of overpriced Fererro Rocher chocolate from the convenience store downstairs, crumple that wrapper into a nice shiny ball and set it down somewhere within 2 feet of your person. For me, this means it goes on the bedside table. It’s a pretty big bedside table, with lots of surface area, but remember: the more space, the greater the challenge! By the time you’re done crumpling things we want that baby jam-packed. Bonus points if your trash-stuff begins to lose purchase and fall off the edges.

-Cry on the phone with your mom

We were leaving bright and early on Friday morning, and so Thursday night I extracted myself from the wallow and joined people for dinner and a movie night down the hall. It was very fun, with lots of snacks and laughter, and I knew that everything was going to be looking up at least marginally the next day. Still, I managed to squeeze in one last mom cry before bed because everybody knows I’m organized as hell.

Bright and Early on Friday Morning

The bus ride to Leshan took about three hours. When we arrived we boarded a boat and donned fluorescent orange life vests before climbing up to the top deck. Our boat was docked just next to one filled with a group of Chinese tourists, so naturally a few of them took the opportunity to photograph the big group of foreigners up close. Naturally, a few of my classmates jokingly got out their phones and took photos of them taking photos of us, which really threw them off, so there we were, two groups of incredibly natural idiots, now in possession of some spectacular images.
It’s important to remember that nobody loses in a situation like this because we all looked sexy in orange.

Our boat finally pulled out from the dock and chugged its way a short distance down and across the river to the Leshan Buddha, which is built into the side of the cliff and is great. According to Us Weekly it’s been dating the statue of liberty long distance for over two years now, and sources say they’re still going strong.

Here’s a photo of me and the big guy himself:


Taken right as Buddha cracked a joke about squirrels and the inevitable passage of time. What a card!

Post-Buddha we had a nice family style lunch where I, true to form, externally ate like a normal person and internally convicted at least 3 people of foul food play/inexcusable commandeering of the lazy susan. It’s sad that my fellow USAC students are so prone to illegal activity, but I’m just thankful for my preternatural vigilance. My friend Nashalia says, “not all heroes wear capes,” and I think that may be relevant here.

We then boarded the bus, drove an hour to somewhere located roughly on-the-mountain, and climbed around a bit to see some temples and a monastery. If I don’t include this it would seem like it never happened, but I also don’t have anything particularly interesting to say about it.


At The Hotel

Half the group split set off to climb the icy peak and stay there for the night while the rest of us drove back to our hotel. It was all girls except for Gabe, and from this set of hard-and-true facts the group name and hashtag—#GirlsAndGabe—was born. There’s something about mountain air that really awakens the creative spirit. 
On the bus we had made a lot of big plans. There was talk of going out, eating at a fun restaurant, maybe miraculously finding Mexican food. Even this last one seemed far-fetched at the time but we were too far gone, riding that #GirlsAndGabe high. 
Only when the bus began to pull off the road and toward the hotel did it become clear that we, like Icarus, had flown too close to the sun. Earth was calling, and back to her we went. 
The hotel was cold and very much of in the middle of nowhere but that didn’t matter because they had beds and rooms, which are the second and third most important features after the humble roof. 

Some things that happened at the roofed hotel:

-A few people pointed out that there was a dog curled up on a chair behind a desk bearing an Assistant Manager plaque. I thought this was fantastic and went around pointing it out to people and saying “Look! The Assistant Manager!” until I really wore myself out and it was time for dinner.

Look! The assistant director!

-After dinner (during which we were given neither water nor tea, I’m forced to add), we walked to a convenience store and got some snacks & hydration for the next day’s hike.

-My friend Kelli bought a beer from the convenience store because I said I could open it for her without an actual opening tool. I thought popping the cap off on the marble bureau top would be a safe bet until the “marble" immediately dented and I realized you can’t trust anything anymore.

-I also might have also dented the wallpapered windowsill. It was a really soft hotel.

-Most of the #Girls gathered in the room shared by Frankie and I to play games and eat the pile of cookies we had picked up at the nearby convenience store. 

-We played a game called Empire which is a lot of fun but I made one big mistake. The only important thing for you to know is that in the game everybody has to think of a word or phrase that fits a particular category. The category I chose was “the name of the world’s best imaginary horse,” and the name I selected was Lettuce Hopscotch. It was only after somebody else pointed it out that I realized it seemed like a PUN NAME recalling the phrase “Let us hopscotch,” which completely destroyed the integrity of the name and imaginary horse in question.

-While I was at the convenience store my roommate Frankie turned on my heated blanket so it would warm up. I think this was the nicest thing ever.

DAY 2

It didn’t take long for me to realize that when in China, the words “temple,” “mountain,” and “hike” can all be eliminated. We don’t need them anymore because there is a single term so mighty, so descriptive in nature, that all others begin to seem like a bit of a trick.
Unlike a fun trick—which might involve whipped cream or hiding behind a door but in a really delightful costume like a seahorse or a big happy slice of tiramisu, I don’t know, I’m not a trick expert, I’ve never even met a seahorse—this the the kind of trick that leaves one stewing in the lukewarm depths of betrayal. 

Since this metaphor seems pretty mangled, allow me to clarify: The trick is a word.
And the word is “stairs.”

If we were in the International Spelling Bee, it would go like this:

Word: Stairs
Can you use it in a sentence please?: “MORE STAIRS?!” (OPTIONAL ADDENDUM: "The absolute nerve.”)
Place of origin: My mouth, multiple times, all up and down that dang mountain. 

I said it on the stairs. I said it on a flat expanse while approaching stairs, and when I was sitting down briefly before re-mounting the stairs, and I said it to many a passing dog in exasperation because I felt like that was our closest shot at common ground. According to the handy dandy iPhone health app, I walked 9 miles and ascended the equivalent of 99 floors. My health app did not factor in the heart palpitations induced by every sighting of a dog, chicken, monkey, or small, colorful, marshmallow baby. See? Even Apple has room for improvement.

Thankfully, the hike was absolutely stunning—really truly. So even when I wanted nothing more than a set of brand new legs or rounded a corner to find a fresh flight laying in wait, it was happening on a beautiful mountain in China. 

Thanks to my cute little camera I was able to make a video documenting most of the things I’ve written about in this blog post and then some! Check it out if you want to see children decorating Hello Kitty Cakes and the whole cast of Noah's Ark on Day 2! Also included: seductive shots of lunch and some monkeys being rascals



I don’t particularly like the first background song but nothing had a better tempo. How about that tempo? 



谢谢


Flashback to Week 1: Chinese Supermarkets and Ineptitude

Please read this post in black & white, as it was written in the past.

A very nice guy named Brent visited us during our USAC program orientation. This took place over the first weekend our group arrived in Chengdu, and so naturally I brought with me a short-circuited brain and the silent desperation of one searching for stability & reassurance in any form. Written advice? Perfect. Auditory? I have great ears. Mathematical? That's actually one of my catalogued weaknesses but nono, keep going. In jello form, with specks of glitter and a tiny diorama of Stonehenge? Well, that sounds beautiful.

Enter Brent. Even though he didn't bring glittery gelatin snacks (don’t think I’ll forget, buddy), he did have a lot of valuable advice to dispense. One of the first things he shared with us was a quote, and it went something like this: 


"After a week in China, you can write a novel. After a month, you can write a paragraph. After a year, you can't even write a sentence."

a few important things to keep in mind:

1. In essence, this quote speaks to the incredible complexity and diversity of modern China. That after spending a substantial amount of time here, it's near impossible to sum up what China is and encompasses in a way that feels truly complete.

2. Google and I have tried so hard to figure out this quote’s source and we keep coming up empty-handed. Really. Nothing. Either this is the witness protection program at work or I'm just very bad at internet searches.


After just a few weeks in China I'm already beginning to understand how neat and true this mystery statement is. And so I should probably write down a couple solid paragraphs before I become incapable.

With this in mind, a disclaimer: These observations aren't intended to exoticize or generalize any element of Chinese culture. Coming here has already been incredibly humbling, and if I emphasize the absurdity of a situation please know that it's at my own expense. I am the foreigner here, and am reminded of that almost constantly, even as I fall more in love with Chengdu every day. 
China is different from the West in many ways. It's these differences that stand out in sharpest relief as I go about the process of getting my bearings, and so it's these differences I most often write down. Just as the SuperSecretIncognito quote reminds us, I'm sure the details I gravitate towards will shift with every passing week. I can already feel it happening. 
But I wrote these stories in my first couple days here, when I didn't own a trashcan yet and rarely brushed my hair. Keep that in mind. 

Carrefour: A Journey Through Time & Personal Space & The Bedding Aisle

My first shopping experience in China went down at Carrefour, a giant multilevel superstore we were driven to just 45 minutes after meeting our dorm rooms. In that time we were told to make a quick list of things we might need. Mine included, but was not limited to:

- wifi router
- sheets
- water kettle
- heated blanket
- floors that were not made of large ice tiles that
- were hell-bent on triggering my fight or flight response upon contact in order to
- kill me

So I was feeling nervous, but excited.

10 minutes in and that excitement had morphed into a new feeling—one kind of like Hysterical Laughter and Pure Terror had a small, squishy baby whom they cherished and co-parented despite being ultimately incompatible. Because here’s the thing about mainland China, when you’re not in Shanghai or Hong Kong or one of those other touristy westernized hotspots. Next to nothing is labeled in English—and why would it be?
Chengdu is not Shanghai or Hong Kong or another such touristy hotspot. For that same practical reason, essentially nobody shopping here speaks English, and neither do the store employees.
But does that stop them from grabbing you by the arm and leading you to the item they're sure you need?

Does that prevent them from talking to you the whole time, unperturbed by your blank expression, possibly sharing helpful facts or telling you about the strange allure of the plum-headed parakeet while encouraging you to rub a certain fabric between your fingers or poke a pillow? Do they waver in the face of your apparent confusion? Do they fall back? Of course not, because this is their damn job, and maybe they’re also working on commission (I need to google this when my wifi is working faster).

And so you rub the fabric. You poke the pillow. They will nod frenetically while you do this as if to say, "I know you understand."
And you, silly, shell-shocked, linguistically incapable you, wish more than anything that you knew how to say, "I really don't."

The depth of my naiveté was driven home around minute 16, when I was the last USAC student still in the sheets aisle. But I wasn't alone!

I was being helped by Caitlyn, a fellow USAC student and resident angel, Jia Jing, the assistant director, and three very determined store employees who were both agile and attentive. I stood there, my eyes fixed on the bedding options, surrounded by a small ring of women speaking to me mostly in mandarin. Most likely letting me know that the plum-headed parakeet goes through a "bluffing phase" during adolescence that's strictly hormone related and should not be taken as an indication of the bird's personality once mature. And while we were on the subject, why couldn’t I just pick a pattern already?

My reason: they were all really, truly ugly.

My internal monologue: why was I being so picky? Why couldn’t I just pick a set and get over it? Why do my limbs stop working when I'm being stared at so intently?

The truth: I’m very aesthetically oriented and affected by my environment. Or: I just like things to look nice, okay?? And these sheets would make me so sad.
(the limb question goes unanswered)

I started to tilt the boxes forward in order to see the patterns housed further back on the shelf and one of the women immediately stepped in, taking them all down and stacking them before me like a tiny wall of internal distress. Then she looked at me expectantly. I picked a set.
They made me so sad.

Soon after, I stood staring up at the wall of comforters. The woman just inches to my right suggested one that cost 120 yuan, but I began examining a 88 yuan specimen (I try to be thrifty, even when half of my brain is melted and sloshing). She began pointing between the two and opening her eyes very wide. She nodded twice as fast. I gazed at her imploringly, nodding too while shrugging and gently weeping(nope) until she turned and full on sprinted down the aisle, yelling at the top of her lungs(absolutely) and dragging Jia Jing back down to where I stood. Jia Jing listened to the woman for a moment and then turned to me.
“This one won’t fit the sheets you have.”

oh YEs, right. The sheets that I hated.

I finally pulled it together enough to go back and switch them out for a set that (I think) I'd been told were less pleasing to the touch, but (I know) came in a respectable plaid pattern.

I bought the wifi router that haunts my every waking moment. I did something silly at checkout. Rinse. Repeat.

Walmart:

If I was searching for some sense of familiarity, I did not find it in the hallowed halls of Walmart—a store I have entered once in America on account of I needed cake, now.

No, here I would find the same small army of employees I met at Carrefour, sporting red aprons and stationed what felt to me like every few yards and also in front of every important item a bewildered college student could want. But this time I was “smarter.” That’s right, you heard me! A damn genius! By using the two-part strategy of Walking Briskly and with Misplaced Purpose, I may have felt just as clueless, but at least I was evading eye contact with anybody who wanted to help stoke the flames of capitalism. There was a close call in the hair products aisle, but I escaped thanks to the split second decision, "I don’t need shampoo right now. Right now or ever. Nihao."

It’s all about pragmatism.

Here's a couple other things Walmart has:
-Live toads larger than your fist
-Raw meat sitting in exposed bins
-Many kinds of yogurt made with many kinds of beans
-Stuffed animals that you're forced to buy at least 2 of for comfort reasons

So the trip went pretty well. There was an iffy period near the end when I wasn’t quite sure where to pay. I assumed check-out would be downstairs but also experienced a very vivid waking fever dream that involved me heading for the downward moving sidewalk only to have twenty store employees converge on me for trying to steal valuable Walmart goods. They would make lots of noise, loudly. They would do it in a language I couldn’t understand. They would do it in front of the fifteen customers crowded just feet away at the info desk.

I stood nearby for about a minute, trying to look busy doing nothing until I spotted him.
“do you speak English?” I ask. The man is in his early forties and wears his hair parted down the middle. I am positive he can tell I am searching for a miracle. A pale, bespectacled miracle.
“yes,” he smiles and is able to tell me that yes, I need to go downstairs to pay, and yes, he does mean that moving sidewalk over there, and also yes, you’re welcome. In America, I would have experienced anxiety about approaching a stranger and asking for help. Here I do it without thinking. Everything is relative! Including the fear of accidental stealing! Additionally, public humiliation. That’s kind of nice.

I'm happy to report that since the writing of this encounter, I've been back to Walmart at least 4* times and can now walk at a leisurely pace and get all the things I need. It's good for my lungs if not my wallet.

*23

To end things on a really uplifting note, here's a photo of bread filled to the brim with custard, not cheese. Custard! It came with a tiny spoon!


谢谢



January 30 | Toads Etc.


Today I went to Walmart! And braved the produce/dairy/meat section to buy cookin' ingredients! I'll write more about the Chengdu supermarket experience in my next post but for now I'm just gonna say 1. It's wild and 2. There are toads. TOADS. 
I finally figured out how to buy fruit and vegetables (you have to get the items weighed and given a sticker at a separate counter before you check out) and cast one wistful, dramatic glance in the direction of the toads. They're so big.
Goodbye, toads.


My new goal: to actually upload these illustrations the day I draw them! The process involves a frustrating iphone photo session, a bit of color correction, and then an hour spent begging and pleading with my wifi router (sometimes it makes me sing to it which is clearly humiliating). But I'm determined to do it more promptly. The one factor out of my control is the sun, because when it sets it's much more difficult to get a good digital approximation of what's on the page. Which is me saying—if I get it up the next day that's okay too. Either way, time is a construct and my room has very dim lighting. 

Did you know all of China has just one time zone? Crazy.

January 28 | sometimes life tests us


My food was the last to arrive by about an hour, and so my first meal of the day was eaten at 3:40 p.m. I'd like to say I handled it gracefully, but in truth a vital part of my brain shut down around minute 27. It was an act of noble self preservation that I personally can't remember. Do you know how some people say a woman's body releases hormones to make her forget the pain of labor post-birth? I think it went something like that.

Where am I? Someone call my mom


As I stare at the small glowing blank box marked "Title", my immediate impulse is to name this blog post The Start Of Something New, which I think means I have the soul of a musician and also need to sit in the corner for a while. And let me tell you, the corner of my room is so cold. I know this is true because I've never visited it. I know better. It's cold over there.
This, in particular, does not happen to be something new starting—I'm always cold. Really, it's like China is just trying to make me feel at home.

I think this is going well so far!?

The Start Of Something New, Part 1

I've been in China now for 20 days and in Chengdu—my new home for the next 4 months—for 17. And I think I can absolutely say, with a vague degree of measured and shaky potential confidence, that I'm finally starting to get my bearings (I know. But keep in mind I never claimed to be good at this). Though I haven't had the time* (*emotional or mental energy) to write something coherent or informative about my time here thus far, I have compiled a note on my phone. It started out as a few brief observations such as:

child pooped on the ground next to me. Seemed happy 

accidentally used word for chicken instead of pork!!!

people keep staring at me

But quickly began to fill up with more and more paragraphs of the blog post I knew I would write. Sometime. Sometime very soon.
And oh man, let me tell you. That sometime soon is so right around the corner. I can smell it. I can smell it and hear it. I can hear it and it has a megaphone (really that's just the man on the street beneath my dorm. Someday I'll figure out what he's yelling). I can feel it, in gusts, like the cold wind originating from somewhere in the corner of my room.

Now I know what you may be asking and it might sound something like this: Why, pray tell, are you writing a blog post about not having a blog post written?
Ok first of all, that's rude.
Secondly, because I do have something to get the metaphorical ball rolling! all over the dang place!

I'm starting an illustrated travel journal!! With illustrations! It'll act as a nice documentation of my time in China, and is part of my wider goal to bring more consistent creativity into my life. I'm not quite sure what it'll look like, or how often I'll be sharing my drawings in blog posts or on instagram, but I do like the idea of including them in certain posts so that when your eyes are exhausted from all these words it'll be like a nice break. Really it's all in the name of service and survival.

I made this first drawing while sitting in front of the little coffee table in my room, with my space heater keeping me toasty and the movie Spirited Away playing.




I hope to make a little drawing of my favorites every month and will post them here, where I can give them the attention they maybe deserve.

1. Bubble Tea. 
I don't know if this needs much explanation, but still I feel compelled to say—it's so good. Those rubbery little balls! That sweet, sweet tea! Chengdu is the home of the Great Panda Research Center, and so it's only appropriate that you can get the traditional black boba mixed with golden boba as an homage to those lazy black and white angels. It's the little things.

2. Baotzi. 
A steamed, filled bun. With what? Hopefully what you asked for, but who's to say! Your Chinese is abysmal. 
There's a boatzi stand directly across the street from the International Student Dorm, where the USAC dorms and classes are located. This provides us with breakfast and between-class snacks, and them with the privilege of interacting with enthusiastic Westerners that speak their language only half the time.

3. Prissy pups!!! 
Guys. GUYS. My heart legitimately started racing when I thought about that-thing-nobody-tells-you-about-Chengdu. That thing is that they like their dogs diminutive. And wearing clothes. On the first day here I was naive and began the fool's errand of trying to count all the chocolate brown toy poodles. Impossible. Impossible, I tell you. Extra points if they're riding in the handlebar basket of someone's bike. 
Many pups wear small sweaters with hoods, upon which are sewn another set of cloth animal ears. For example, a pomeranian wearing a bear costume. A goldendoodle that's actually a bunny. Clean up in aisle EVERYWHERE when this happens, because I'm peeing. And clapping. And whispering almost aggressively to whoever's nearest about how unbelievably lucky we are to be alive to witness this. I say it through gritted teeth.

4. Noodles, everywhere. 
My current favorites come from a food stand in Wide and Narrow Alley. They cost 10 yuan ($1.36) and are cold noodles nested on a hidden swamp of Sichuan spice. When I first got these I was mildly taken aback by the numbing peppercorn that made my mouth tingle all over, but within two days I was taking the metro alone to repeat the experience. I had to write down the instructions on my phone and make three transfers. Incidentally, I feel very comfortable riding the Chengdu metro now. 

5. Cute babies. 
And my body was just starting to recover from writing about the dogs. It's like the parents in Chengdu know there is cuteness competition and they rise to the occasion with a vengeance. Not only are most of the Young Ones swaddled in a colorful and ridiculous amount of clothing, but many of their outfits have hoods with ears too. Precious critter ears and rosy little cheeks. I'm exhausted just thinking about it. 

6. My micron pens and Copic markers. 
It's going to be a summer wedding.

7. Strangely, Hamburgers. 
I rarely eat them in America, but it was like some sort of food-based biological clock started clanging a week and a half in and I've really come to appreciate the comfort of an overpriced beef patty. Right now it's the beginning of Chinese New Year, and because everyone is home with their families or out of the city most of the Chinese restaurants are closed. Western restaurants in Chengdu are much more expensive than others but are one of the only options aside from convenience store ramen. I've had two hamburgers since getting here, which feels like two too many given it's been less than a month. They've also been BBQ burgers??? someone needs to call me so we can talk it through.

Honorable mention goes to: My backpack! Poor thing didn't get a number (someone's getting fired for that).
I take it everywhere and it holds my important things and is pretty.


In summation: more informative blog post will be up in the next couple days! 
thank you very very much for reading!

bye!!



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